There is a Purepechan legend about Lago Zirahuen in Michoacan, Mexico. The Emperor Siguangua had a house built on the shore of the forbidding lake. There a sacred hummingbird stole his daughter's soul and transformed her into moonlight. Devastated by her disappearance, her beloved searched for her nightly. Finally the mother goddess Cueraperi led the grieving Cuitzeman to the moon gilded waters of the lake. The Princess arose from the depths, and dragged her beloved beneath the waters to abide with her forever.
The Princess is usually referred to as "La Sirena"("The Mermaid"), and is surrounded by a a dark legend. Angered by the hummingbird's betrayal, The Mermaid lies in wait to pull men down under the waters. Dozens of local fishermen drown each year, as well as unwary tourists. When I lived in Zirahuen, an entire family from Mexico City drowned, as one by one they ventured into the frigid waters to rescue loved ones in peril.
Called an "Ojo Del Mar" ("Eye of the Sea"), the lake waters shade from clear sky blue to deep cobalt . Perhaps this is the basis of another popular legend, that the bottomless lake is connected to the Pacific Ocean by a profoundly deep tunnel. The lake does have a mysterious presence, and very strong currents.
Although charming and rustic, the town does not often welcome long term visitors or developers. Most townspeople and ranchers prefer to retain their traditional lifestyles and values . Foreigners (anyone not from Zirahuen) are tolerated only as long as they do not disrupt village life. Most are only allowed to live on the outskirts, in locations approved by the community. Residents of Zirahuen are intent on retaining the natural beauty of their surroundings and the purity of the lake waters.
I was told that foreigners who had displeased or disrupted the community were usually asked to leave, and were sometimes forced out. I was rented a hilltop dwelling outside the community by one of the village elders. When we arrived at the house we found a woman tourist packing up her belongings. She said she had been in Zirahuen only a few days, but had been frightened into cutting short her stay.
We were not exactly welcomed. Our first nights in the house were enlivened by people running and jumping on the flat roof. Other nights cattle were noisily driven through the yard. Later, we became more more accepted, and my older daughter was seranaded from a tree by a young village boy.
To a great extent, the people of Zirahuen govern their own community and enforce their own laws. Lawbreakers are simply told to leave. Our neighbor across the road, Cenida, had been exiled because she had tried to kill a rival. I had a frightening encounter with another local who had been banished for committing murder.
I was walking across the yard one afternoon when a truck pulled up right next to me. The driver said that he had seen me at the bottom of the hill getting a tire repaired, and he had brought his friends for a visit. After some conversation, it turned out that they were interested in more than a visit. I was living in Zirahuen alone with my children, and I was terrified. Then the men suddenly turned and left. Unseen by me, Cenida was holding a shotgun on them.
When I first moved into the house, Cenida's 5 year old son informed me that he must be the only person gathering the firewood. For a fee, of course. He then pointed to a pine tree about 50 feet in back of the house, and stated that I was never to go beyond that tree for any reason. I was mystified, but agreed.
This was explained one afternoon as we drove back from the Patzcuaro market. Large columns of black smoke were rising from the hills immediately behind our house. I was horrified to discover that the smoke was from vast marijuana fields the Mexican army had just burned. Tragically, the military had also shot any farmers found in the vicinity. There were many widows made in Zirahuen that day.
I was told that the distant landowners would not be charged with any crime, and that the fields would eventually be replanted.
There was a reason not to go beyond that pine tree.
